Souvenirs from North Korea

North Korea Propaganda Postcards

Not exactly subtle, these postcards and others similar were available for purchase at many tourist sites within Pyongyang. ‘Songun’ (military-first politics) is centre stage within North Korea and presented in all forms of media – postcards are no exception. In sending one, you may make a postmans day.

Left: “If the US imperialists aim their gun at us, we will do the same, but with our cannon!”

Right: “We will fight the tough by being even tougher!”

Top Left: “Give us any command!”

Bottom Left: “With the united strength of the whole nation, let’s detonate the nuclear war manoeuvre provocation of the US!”

Right: “Raising the sound of the marching group’s trumpet, let’s march forward towards a powerful nation!”

Kaesong Koryo Insam Liquor

This fine beverage is a ‘Special Class Commodity’ only available to the elite and wealthy in North Korea (it’s very expensive) and has earned both ‘Gold Medals’ and ‘Diplomas’ to international acclaim, if the box is to be believed.

It’s a 700ml, 86 proof bottle of 20 year old rice alcohol distilled and bottled in Kaesong, North Korea. Inside it contains Kaesong’s speciality ‘insam’ (ginseng), an extensive root plant that’s been grown for 6 years – the perfect timing to highly concentrated nutrients. Why is it bottled? Well, ginseng is said to wield a myriad of medicinal benefits, ranging from beating physical and mental fatigue to diabetes. It’s found globally, however the Korean ginseng has a solid reputation – North Korea recently released a wonder drug named Kumdang-2 containing ginseng (and not a lot else) that apparently cures Ebola, AIDS, MERS, tuberculosis and well…cancer. Interesting.

It was purchased from a supermarket in Pyongyang; I was told I was the second foreigner to be allowed inside. A plaque on the entrance denoted the dates both Kim Jong-Il and Kim Jong-Un had overseen the store. It’s illegal for foreigners to handle local currency. To pay, I had to line up; receive a receipt, then pay at a currency exchange booth offering unofficial, artificially inflated North Korean Won rates – head back to collect my goods and finally back to the booth to collect my change in 3 different currencies. Almost certainly wrong, as usual.

The alcohol was also a smash hit with the Korean People’s Army General who searched my luggage on exit from North Korea in Sinuiju. Smiles weren’t derived easily, but his discovery of this magical box resulted in one of absolute approval.

North Korean Stamps

Artworks and stamp collections were commonly available for purchase in North Korea. Collections were extensive, however quite pricey (25 euro+) but were a fascinating political scrapbook to past and present North Korea. Hard to believe, but not all stamps were critical of the United States – many are simply historic throwbacks or political milestone celebrations.

These stamps are a sample into the variation.

Top Left: Mechanization. Automation. Remote control. (Juche, self-reliance ideology and technological advancement)

Top Middle: 10 Century to 14 century (historic dynasty of North Korea)

Top Right: UNDP (United Nations Development Programme) technical cooperation for 40 years, 1990.

Bottom Left: Mansudae Grand Monument, the anti-Japanese revolutionary struggle for 10 years, 1974.

Bottom Right: Workers Party of Korea Sixth Congress decision, let’s unite for piercing penetration! The Federal Democratic Republic IO administrative policy. Frequency, equal peace, national unity.

Democratic Peoples Republic of Korea flag

Not simply a Democratic People’s Republic of North Korea flag – this almost got me detained during my visit.

It was National Day, an important calendar event in celebration of the founding of the DPRK. I purchased the flag from the Yanggakdo Hotel in Pyongyang with the intention of some light-hearted pseudo-nationalism, which went down fantastic – the locals loved it. But, as the day came to an end, after tucking into dinner I was taken aside during follow up beers by my guide, huffing from finding me; and briefed on the situation. Basically, upon arrival back to the hotel I had left all but my necessities on the bus; we used the same bus every day of our tour and it was common for us to leave waters, sweets or non-valuables at our seats.

Tonight, I had left the flag sitting in the back pocket of the seat in front. My guide asked me if I had done this, I responded that I had. She proceeded to tell me that the bus driver had found it and was left incredibly offended by my actions as he perceived it as a way in disposing of the North Korean flag – that I didn’t want it anymore and that I hadn’t given it the respect that it required. He had reported this offence to the guides. Quite alarmed at this point and with vision as to where this was heading, I gave my utmost apology to the guide and it was filtered back. The apology was accepted and I was advised that under no circumstance was I to leave the flag within North Korea, I was to take it out with me. This was always my intention, but it didn’t matter.

This situation could have easily escalated; the guide’s report all happenings back to the government – I had technically broken DPRK law, and it was as simple and as innocent as that. Apologies and acceptance of responsibility in North Korea go a long way. It’s quite easy to get blasé in North Korea, that may sound strange; but you are sheltered well – they do a great job at lulling you into a false sense of security. This quickly evaporates in the event of any wrongdoing.

From that point on, my flag was almost kept as a spiritual being living within my luggage that I checked up on regularly – and here it is for your viewing today. What a memento.

Pyongyang T-shirt

This is the only government approved t-shirt for sale in the entire country of North Korea, about as sterile and unimaginative as souvenir t-shirts get. An untapped market, most of us purchased one of these…we did yearn for some variety however there is no market freedom for locals to produce their own goods for foreigners or otherwise. I only saw it available within Pyongyang, but at least you had a choice of three colours! On the back below the neck is a small land mass map of North Korea, with the text ‘Pyongyang DPRKorea’. This t-shirt got me a lot of attention in China on the day I left North Korea, they found it a novelty.

Postcard home to Australia from Pyongyang

It took a number of months, but this postcard I sent from Pyongyang to my parents on the 13/09/2014 actually arrived to Australia. I apologise for my handwriting. My words were chosen wisely, all postcards sent from North Korea are translated and screened by officials. Anything untoward or critical ensures it’ll never cross the border, and could possibly end in your detainment by the government. So, I did my best to sugar coat the experience.

My tongue-in-cheek ode to the supreme commander Kim Jong-Un at the end was walking a fine line, but I simply couldn’t help myself.

DVD: A Traffic Controller on Crossroads

I purchased this DVD in the Grand People’s Study House in Pyongyang, it’s directed, produced and distributed in North Korea and stars the iconic Pyongyang traffic ladies that I am convinced form almost a nationalistic fetish to those that live here.

Traffic ladies are synonymous with Pyongyang city life – it’s a well respected position; certainly not a novelty. These beautiful ladies are dressed immaculately; rain, hail or shine and operate near robotically with movements of militaristic intention.

Monotonous and soulless, nobody dare cross the intimidating law enforcement of the traffic lady on the streets of Pyongyang. I personally witnessed cars come to a screeching halt at the change of signal, as they offer no equivalent to our ‘yellow’ traffic light.

North Korea Flag Pin and Stamp

All North Korean citizens must wear, by law; a ‘lapel’ pin of the late leaders above their heart. Ordinary citizens usually wear that of either Kim Il-Sung or Kim Jong-Il themselves, while ‘elites’ are permitted to wear a more expensive, double portrait version, denoting the social hierarchy in North Korea.

As a foreigner, you aren’t allowed to purchase these, and are instead urged to buy the (less interesting) souvenir North Korean flag version pictured here instead. So I did. The stamp was given to me as part of my ‘change’. The pin was 1 euro. Everything was 1 euro, seemingly. Or 1 USD. Or well…whatever you have on you in foreign currency. Anyway, I wasn’t going to argue – it’s not a stamp you’d see in every collection.

North Korean Cigarettes

“Cigarettes are harmful for your health.” Surprising, right? The juxtaposition between health warnings adopted by most of the modern world and the otherwise concerning lifestyle conditions forced upon citizens of North Korea may leave you scratching your head. Me too. Has North Korea really adopted such a reasonable stance on a known health hazard? Probably. Alternatively, it’s been hypothesised as a way to reduce the value of cigarettes as a currency between it’s citizens, primarily bribery. Plausible. Commodity scarcity is rife, making them highly valuable currencies in North Korea. But, I don’t know – it’s just food for thought.

These particular cigarettes; ‘Lake Samilpo’ are named after a south-eastern lake of the same name I visited in North Korea. A non-smoker myself, and one that’s likely spent too long in Asia; I purchased them as a currency. Unbeknownst to me, they’re a highly regarded brand associated with male status in North Korea, so I ended up handing out packets like the Santa Claus of cigarettes. These couple I kept as product mementos though!

Book: Supreme Leader Kim Jong Un in the Year 2012

I purchased this book at the Foreign Language Bookstore in Pyongyang. A small trusted group of foreigners are employed to translate Korean publications into other languages to distribute the re-education beyond North Korean borders and into international acclaim.

This particular book was widely distributed, I saw it at most souvenir desks during my visit to North Korea. An educated guess, I’d say it’s because the transition between Kim Jong-Il and Kim Jong-Un’s new leadership is still a sensitive political topic – confidence from the people in Kim Jong-Un as the new commander is paramount to North Korea continuing forward unchanged.

The entire book is a celebration into Kim Jong-Un – in particular his accomplishments and the unconditional, endearing love he has (already) ‘earned’ from his people.

Air Koryo Items

Air Koryo is North Korea’s only airline, it’s state-owned; the flag carrier and the first point of contact for you as a foreigner to the hermit kingdom. The Pyongyang Times is complimentary upon boarding, and the stewardesses don their leaders pins above their hearts. It’s the only one-star rated airline on earth, and until 2010 was banned from entering the European Union due to safety and maintenance concerns. Was it that bad to fly on? I didn’t think so, but the food quality is in a league of it’s own – even by airline standards.

Either way, I wanted to take a memento of likely my one and only flight on Air Koryo. My boarding pass was printed by Air China in Beijing, so it didn’t tick the souvenir boxes – next best thing? An Air Koryo branded air sickness bag and hand towel. I hold no shame!

Masik Pass Slippers

Ordered by Kim Jong-Un himself, Masik Pass Ski Resort was built by the Korean People’s Army in just 10 months to boost tourism numbers. After my visit, I can confidently claim that Masik Pass is far and away the most luxurious building available to the ‘public’ in North Korea. Easily.

So, I took their slippers. I think that was allowed, but I’m unsure. If not, I apologise and they’re still in their shrink wrapping. Sadly, there was no matching gown.

Masik Pass was simply stunning inside – it’s nothing like anywhere else we stayed. It’s on par with international luxury standards, and reminded me of The Venetian in Las Vegas; especially the bathrooms. It sits in the middle of nowhere with a bright allure. Not bad for a country with a power shortage. Especially considering we were the only guests, and the staff outnumbered us. Man, that was a weird visit.

Another fun fact: Masik Pass came to international notoriety in 2013 after having it’s outsourced ski lift order blocked by the United Nations, classifying it a ‘prestigious propaganda project’. North Korea responded by labelling the decision a serious abuse of human rights.

CD: The Song of the Sun Will Be Immortal

With modern classics such as “Long Live Generalissimo Kim Il Sung”, “Our Leader Beloved of People” and “The General Lives Forever as the Sun”, I just had to have it. Apparently the eighth CD in the collection, a quick ponder of the track list may leave you wondering how many further amalgamations of Kim Il-Sung and authoritarian words are left mathematically possible.

In all seriousness, I wanted to leave North Korea with something like this. North Korean music is unique – every song is politically influenced, pop music as we know it simply does not exist. Musical freedom is undefined, it’s usually militaristic, upbeat and supported orchestrally with female vocals. References to the leaders and self-reliance ideology is certain – I watched a number of performances on Korean State Television in Pyongyang, and it focussed more on religious celebration (of the leaders) than the music. Amazing stuff, and a great souvenir.

The Pyongyang Times

The Pyongyang Times is the foreign language edition of the local Korean newspaper distributed across the country. This newspaper is North Korean citizens’ only exposure to the outside world – it’s state controlled and offers a restricted view to reality. It’s a very interesting read.

I was told that by law, Kim Jong-Un is featured on the front page of each edition and that it’s illegal to fold in the middle, as it could crease the great leaders head. The paper cannot be used in a disrespectful manner (firestarter, cleaning a mess etc.) as it retains near holy status; outlining progression of the Korean people and the Juche ideology. I read three editions, and found that each one followed the same structure – beginning with political accomplishments and celebrations, followed by technological and social breakthroughs before offering a double spread in targeted, aggressive propaganda claims towards South Korea, United States and Japan. Facts were optional. Sport, and smaller success stories were on the back page.

The Pyongyang Times has in the past been scrutinised due to it’s creative license, including claims of South Korea’s ‘poor human rights record’, maintaining a 50% unemployment rate and spread of incurable disease.

This was one of my favourite souvenirs. I’ve included three articles below, they’re an interesting read.